Building the Dawn Treader

Jim Mahoney
Marlboro College

So, you want to build a LEGO robot, eh?

One mobile platform which will carry the Handyboard is the "Dawn Treader," shown at the right. Except for the second motor, all the parts can be found in the LEGO Dacta 9609 kit, as listed and described below. (Though a few extra people and frills have been added to the one pictured.)

If you don't want to design your own, then the Dawn Treader will be the basis of the robot that you build for the Marlboro College Lego Robotics course.

You probably should look at the Art of Lego Design before you start; several of the ideas described there are incorporated into the Dawn Treader.


Parts List

I've measured all lengths in "spots", by which I mean the number of lego bumps on a piece or on a piece of equal length.

Here are the pieces I used for the Dawn Treader itself. These are certainly not the only reasonable combinations; in many cases I used what I had on hand rather than what I might have liked. Your mileage my vary.


Instructions

Before you start, slide two of the small 8-tooth gears onto the motor axles, if they aren't already there. (The parts image shows them attached already.)

The guts of the Dawn Treader are the two gear assemblies at the bottom of the vehicle. The image at the right shows one assembled and one half-assembled. (Note that you can see bigger version of most of these pictures by clicking on them.)

Begin by putting the gears and spacers centered on the 8 4-spot axles as shown at the left.

Then rivet together the sides into a 3-beam 16-spot blue outside wall and a 2-beam 16-spot red/blue inside wall.

Next connect the outside "wheels", and rivet the whole collection together with 6- and 4-spot blue vertical beams). Each 4-spot axle has 3 things on it; one has a 24-spot gear, a spacer, and a 14-spot gear, the other three a 24-spot gear, an 8-spot gear, and a spacer in various orders.

If you're still having a hard time getting all the details from the pictures, maybe these hints will help.

When you're done each of the finished gear boxes should look like the image at the left. (As with all these pictures, click on it to see it enlarged.)

The next step is to attack the two gear boxes together and add the motors. Use the 6 6-spot red beams vertically, three at each end, to rivet the inside (blue/red) walls of the gear boxes together. Attach the rivets at the third hole in from each end of the gear box walls.

The two motors attach directly above the fastest moving 24-tooth gears on each side, side by side with their axles facing the left and right sides of the Treader. Attach the electrical wire blocks to the sides, run the wires up next the central vertical red beams, and attach the other 2x2 block to the front of the Treader.


Once the motors are in and the two gears boxes are joined, add grey flats to the top and bottom:
- The 2x6 and 2x8 flats go on the bottom to increase the rigidity a bit.
- The 1x4, 1x6, and 1x8 flats fit on top of the outside walls and along the center of the two motors.
- The two 6x10 flats then cover over the motors, on either side of the central 1x8, and extending out to the two side walls.

Finally, the last step is to build an enclosure for the Handyboard, which rides on top. Two of the 8-spot red beams attach in the normal to the two base's outer walls, while the remaining 8 beams are laid on their sides and riveted together into the rectangle shown at the right. Lengthwise, two long beams are offset by two holes and riveted together, while side-to-side the last two long beams are riveted in their second hole in, with a short one centered to even things up. The holes in the sides of this rectangle then push down into the 8-spot beams attached to the base, and voila!

The Dawn Treader.

All that remains is to place the Handyboard on the top, wire it up to the front electrical blocks, program it (that's another story), attach a few sensors here and there as you please (so's that), and let 'er rip!


Other Comments

If you want to pile something on top of the Dawn Treader, it's pretty straightforward to build a "hat" to go on top. (These pieces are not included in the parts list.) I used two 8x16 green plates and a bunch of red beams to make this one, which may be inserted (upside-down) into the Handyboard's lego enclosure.


References and Links


Jim Mahoney
Last modified: Fri Aug 14 12:50:27 EDT 1998